
Coffee ingestion on average is about a third of that of tap water in North
America and
Grinding Your Own
How Fine the Grind
In general,
grind coffee as fine as you can without clogging the holes of the brewer or
turning the coffee to mud. The finer the grind, the more contact there will be
between coffee and hot water, and the faster and more thoroughly the essential
oils will be released, without activating harsher, less-soluble chemicals.
On the other hand, you don't want to grind your coffee to a powder, because
completely pulverizing it destroys the essential oil, which becomes vaporized
by the heat and friction of the grinding process.
Brewing Coffee
No matter what they're called, all ways
of brewing coffee are basically the same: The ground coffee is soaked in the
water until the water tastes good. The only equipment you really need to make
great coffee is an open pot, a flame, and, possibly, a strainer.

Brewing Suggestions
No matter which method or invention you
use to brew your coffee, most authorities urge you to do the following:
- Grind the coffee as fine as you can make it without losing any
through the holes in the filter of the coffee maker. Never grind it to a
powder.
- Use plenty of coffee: unless your coffee maker instructs otherwise,
at least 2 level tablespoons or 1 standard coffee measure per 6-ounce cup.
- Keep the coffee maker clean, and rinse it with hot water before you
brew.
- Use fresh water, as free of impurities and alkalines as possible.
- Brew with hot water, as opposed to lukewarm or boiling water.
Boiling damages coffee flavor because it vaporizes much of the coffee
essence while it continues to extract other bitter chemicals. A
temperature of 200 degrees F is ideal, which means bringing the water to a
boil and then waiting a couple of minutes before brewing.
- In filter and drip systems, avoid brewing less than the brewer's
full capacity. If the pot is made to brew six cups, the coffee will taste
better if you brew the full six.
- If you live in an area with alkaline, or hard, water, periodically
run a strong solution of vinegar through the works of your brewer to clear
out lime deposits, and rinse thoroughly.
- Some don'ts: Don't boil coffee; it cooks off all the delicate
flavoring essence and leaves the bitter chemicals. Don't percolate or
reheat coffee; it has the same effect as boiling, only less so. Don't hold
coffee for very long on the heat for the same reason. Don't mix old coffee
with new; it's like using rotten wood to prop up a new building.
Ninety-nine
percent of a cup of coffee is water. If the water isn't pleasant to drink,
don't make coffee with it. Hard, or alkaline, water does not directly harm
flavor and aroma, but does mute some of the natural acids in coffee and
produces a blander cup without the acidity snap. Water that has been treated
with softeners makes even worse coffee. Use bottled water or a filter system.
Tasting Coffee
Learning to Taste
Anyone interested in becoming
a coffee connoisseur must learn to taste. You may well want to compare samples
of various coffees at the same sitting so you have an idea of what coffee
terminology actually describes. (You'll find a complete list of coffee tasting
terms in the Coffee Glossary.) Remember that dark roasting mutes or eliminates
distinctions in flavor, so make certain you take this into account when comparing
various roasts. It's best to buy all of your samples from the same supplier, so
that your palate won't be confused by differences in style of roast. You can
either make individual samples with a small pot or a one-cup filter cone, or
brew the way professional tasters do. In either case, use the same amount of
each coffee, ground the same and brewed identically.
Professional tasters assemble a clean cup or shallow glass for each coffee to
be sampled; a soup spoon, preferably silver plated; a glass of water in which
to rinse the spoon between samplings; and something to spit into.
- Put one standard measure (2 level tablespoons) of each coffee to be
sampled, freshly and finely ground, in each cup...
- ...Pour 5 to 6 ounces of near-boiling water over each sample. Some
of the grounds will sink to the bottom of the cup, and some will form a
crust on the surface of the coffee. Wait a couple of minutes for the
coffee to steep...
- ...Then test each coffee for aroma. Take the spoon and, leaning
over the cup, break the crust. Virtually stick your nose in the coffee and
sniff. The aroma will never be more distinct than at this moment. If you
want to sample the aroma a second time, lift some of the grounds from the
bottom of the cup to the surface, and sniff again.
- After you've broken the crust, most of the grounds should settle to
the bottom of the cup. Use the spoon to scoop up whatever remains floating
on the surface and dump it into the improvised spittoon. Top off the cup
with fresh hot water...
- ...Now take a spoonful of each coffee, lift it to a point just
below your lips, and suck it violently into your mouth. The purpose is to
spray coffee all over your tongue in order to experience a single,
comprehensive jolt of flavor. This inhaling of coffee spray should give
you a notion of flavor...
- ...Now roll the mouthful of coffee around your tongue, bounce it,
chew it even. This exercise should give you a sense of both the body and
the acidity of the sample. Also note how the sensation of the coffee
develops after the first impression; note whether it changes and deepens,
or whether it becomes weaker or flatter. After all this, spit out the
coffee, noting the aftertaste. It's a good idea to concentrate
successively on each of the broad tasting categories; i.e. taste all three
samples for acidity; then taste all three for body; then for flavor; and
finally for finish, or aftertaste...
...Continue to
taste as the coffee cools. Some characteristics reveal themselves most clearly
in a cooler coffee. If your palate becomes jaded or confused, sip some cold
water or eat a bit of bread.
Espresso
Espresso is several things at once. It is
a unique method of brewing in which hot water is forced under pressure through
tightly packed coffee, a cup at a time. It is a roast of coffee, darker brown
than the normal American roast but not quite black. In a larger sense, it is an
entire approach to coffee cuisine, involving not only roast and brewing method,
but grind and grinder, a technique of heating milk, and a traditional menu of
drinks. In the largest sense of all, it is an atmosphere or mystique: The
espresso brewing machine is the spiritual heart and esthetic centerpiece of the
European-style cafe.
A Remarkable Cup of Coffee
Good espresso is
rich, heavy-bodied, and almost syrupy; furthermore, it has the characteristic
bittersweet bite of dark-roast coffee. The sharp flavor and heavy body make it
an ideal coffee to be drunk with milk and sugar, but hardly the sort of
beverage to be consumed unsweetened or in large quantities. Most espresso
drinkers outside
Espresso Brewing Fundamentals
Coffee and
Roast. Café espresso is
brewed using a coffee roasted dark brown, but not black. This roast is called
Espresso, Italian, or French in stores.
There are two requirements for making good espresso. First, you need to grind
the coffee just fine enough, and tamp it down in the filter basket just hard
enough, so that the barrier of ground coffee resists the pressure of the hot
water sufficiently to produce a slow dribble of dark, rich liquid. Second, you
need to stop the dribble at just the right moment, before the oils in the
coffee are exhausted.
Grind. The best grind for espresso is very fine and gritty, but not a
dusty powder.
Filling and Tamping. Fill the filter basket with coffee to the point
just below the brim, spread it evenly, then lightly tamp it down. Never use
less than the minimum volume of ground coffee recommended for your machine,
even if you are brewing a single cup.
Brewing. Timing is everything in espresso brewing. The richest and most
flavorful coffee issues out right at the beginning; as brewing continues, the
coffee becomes progressively thinner and more bitter. Consequently, collect
only as much coffee as you will actually serve.
Frothed Milk. Espresso is a strong, concentrated
coffee, and, in accordance with European tradition, many of the drinks in
espresso cuisine combine it with large quantities of frothed milk.
Whole Bean vs. Ground Coffee
Fresh-ground
coffee may smell wonderful, but it doesn't stay fresh for long. It loses its
aroma and taste very quickly. That's why canned ground coffee never measures up
to fresh-ground coffee. We recommend that we ship you only whole roasted coffee
beans for maximum freshness.
Specialty vs. Commercial Coffees
The coffees I
advise you to buy are known in the trade as specialty coffees. The opposite of
specialty is commercial coffee. From the consumer's viewpoint, the most
immediately noticeable difference between commercial and specialty coffees is
packaging: Commercial coffee comes in little bottles of instant or is already ground
and packed in a tin or a collapsed, plastic-encased brick. Specialty coffee
comes as whole beans, either in one-pound bags or in bulk, and usually needs to
be ground before it's brewed.
Commercial coffee is typically roasted and packed in large plants, under
nationally advertised brand names. Specialty coffee is usually roasted in small
stores or factories, using traditional methods and technology, and is often
sold where it's roasted.
Specialty coffees offer considerably more choice than commercial coffees. You
Specialty coffees offer more opportunity for consumers to participate in the creation of their pleasure; commercial coffees are fait accompli in tins or bags.
More and more consumers are buying specialty coffees and fewer and fewer are buying commercial coffees.
The final, most important difference between commercial and specialty coffees is the way they taste and smell. The best commercial blended coffees are quite good. The worst are atrocious. The best specialty coffees, brewed freshly and correctly, are more than good; they are superb.
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